This morning I visited my favorite local coffee shop,
Motore Coffee. It's 2 blocks from our apartment I've been frequenting it ever since we moved to Seattle. I've gotten to know the owner a bit; he's just a local guy who loves coffee and decided to start up his own
café. I've chatted with him a few times about the coffee industry, which is no small topic in a city like this.
Right now is an interesting time for the specialty coffee business in Seattle. By 'specialty
' I don't mean the big guys like Starbucks, Tully's, and
Peet's; rather I'm referring to small, local roasters who strive more for quality than quantity. This niche is filled with about a half dozen main players, most of which have been operating since the espresso revolution in Seattle in the 70's & 80's. Almost any non-chain
café or restaurant will serve one of these brands, and
Motore is no different.
But a shakeup is starting to occur. Eight years ago a Seattle native who grew up working for these Seattle-based roasters moved down to Portland and started
Stumptown Coffee. Portland is justifiably renowned for its great beer, but Stumptown put Portland on the coffee map in a big way. In 2005 & 2006 Stumptown was named "Roaster of the Year" by Roast magazine, which is to coffee as Vogue is to fashion. Now, Stumptown is opening a couple coffee shops, a tasting room, and a roasting plant in Seattle. They're in the process of courting
café owners to make the switch and start using Stumptown beans, and the owner of Stumptown was in my
café today.I had heard of them before but after having a conversation with Duane, the founder and owner, I understand why Stumptown is different from the rest. Duane and his team regard coffee with the same kind of passion, dedication, and rigor that a oenophile reserves for wine. It's not just "mild, medium, or French roast." Each coffee is named solely from where it came from: country, region, town, and sometimes even the name of the farm. They have estate coffees where 100% of the beans came from the same
field. They have daily coffee tastings (called 'cuppings') where you can taste the difference between
Brazil Fazenda Serra do Bone,
Rwanda Karaba E Lot, and about 20 other varietals.
The one I tasted today was called
Finca el Injerto, which, I learned, is made by a guy named Arturo Aguierre in the Huehuetenango region of northern Guatemala. Stumptown works hard to ensure the quality of their product by building exclusive relationships with their farmers. They regularly pay 3 or 4 times the minimum fair trade price; Duane explained that enabling Arturo and his family to live decent lives is not only socially conscious, it's the best way to ensure quality beans in the future. Duane visits all of his farmers in Central & South America, Africa, and Indonesia at least 3 times per year (a Starbucks buyer usually visits once per year).
Finca el Injerto was wonderful. We prepared it in a French Press and unlike most coffees available in the U.S., it was neither bitter nor acidic. I tasted a hint of cherries at the beginning with a chocolate milk-like aftertaste. Only after coming home and doing a little reading did I learn that last year's crop of Finca (because Duane is anal about freshness it's only available during certain times of the year when the beans ripen) was considered by aficionados to be the best coffee in the world.
Because of their uniqueness, Stumptown's beans are a little more expensive than most (around $14/pound), but after meeting the guy responsible for this I'm more than convinced it's worth it.